Monica Larner, één van de vaste proevers van het team van Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, bezocht recent het Toscaanse bezit van de familie Bär: Gagliole. Ze werd in de gelegenheid gesteld om het gehele gamma te proeven en was -op zijn zachtst gezegd- onder de indruk. De proefnotities en beoordelingen (op een schaal van 1-100) liegen er niet om. U treft ze onderstaand.
Gagliole 2015: “Fruit for the 2015 Gagliole comes exclusively from the estate’s vineyards in Panzano in Chianti. The wine is 98% Sangiovese with a tiny 2% addition of Cabernet Sauvignon from older vines (up to 30 years old) planted 500 meters above sea level. This vintage sports a strong tartaric side with fresh acidity and sharpness that is contrasted beautifully against the plump, ripe and dark flavors you get in this sunny vintage. The bouquet is exuberant and expressive with wild berry, blueberry, blue flower and light shadings of spice. Bottle production is limited to 6,423 units. The wine is fermented in oak, partly in barrique and a part in botte. It is then aged in barrique, with only 20% new oak.” 94+/100
Rubiolo 2016: “This wine is an absolute steal. The 2016 Chianti Classico Rubiolo is 95% Sangiovese with 5% Merlot. Most of the grapes come from the Panzano area, and a smaller percentage comes from Castellina in Chianti. Thanks to some of the high-altitude positioning of the vineyards (up to 500 meters above sea level), grapes were harvested late (in mid-October) in this cooler vintage. This is one of the reasons you get so much fruit freshness with intense berry aromas. The Panzano in Chianti vineyard has old vines planted in compact clay soils with galestro stone. The Castellina area has similar yet slightly looser soils with terraces that show increased vigor and fertility among the plants. This wine is not as dark or dense compared to the 2015 vintage, yet it is fresher and more elegant. Some 50,000 bottles were made.” 91/100
Gallule 2015: “This is a new, high-end release from Gagliole. The 2015 Chianti Classico Riserva Gallule represents a cru selection of Sangiovese from old organically farmed vines (between 25 and 30 years old with rows positioned between olive trees). The age of the vines contributes to the dark intensity and thickness of its aromatic profile. Yet its unique Panzano territory contributes to the wine’s freshness and bright elegance that comes through so beautifully despite the heat and sunshine of this vintage. Grapes were harvested during the last days of September and fermented in rotating barrels as well as conical-shaped vats. The wine is aged in neutral and second year oak only. Gallule opens to a dark garnet-purple color with fine aromas of wild berry, spice, tar and moist potting soil. The mouthfeel is broad, ample and generous. Only 2,000 bottles were made.” 95/100
il Bianco 2017: "My visit to Gagliole this year was full of many new surprises (and new wines). One of them is the delightfully easy-drinking 2017 Il Bianco. This wine is a blend of 60% Trebbiano with 30% Chardonnay and 10% Malvasia Bianca. The wine is fermented in barrique, but malolactic fermentation was skipped in this warm vintage in order to lock in the natural freshness of the grapes. The Chardonnay was harvested at the beginning of September, and the other varieties came off the vines later. Each was fermented separately. The Malvasia Bianca clone here is semiaromatic and comes from old terraces. It contributes some floral notes of star jasmine and honeysuckle. The Trebbiano component is not particularly aromatic, but this grape does add peach and white melon. This is a mid-weight white wine (aged in barrique) that finishes with pretty mineral notes of flint and talc power. Only 3,000 bottles were made." 91/100
Pecchia 2015: “This wine was not produced in 2014. The 2015 Pecchia sees fruit sourced from the estate’s best Sangiovese planted at 500 meters above sea level. What stands out most here is the wine’s texture, which is firm and tightly knit. That compact nature of the fruit bodes very well for the future aging potential of this wine that I expect will play forward for ten years or more. The wine shows muscle and power that is applied with broad brush strokes. Despite the evident depth and dimension on offer here, this wine remains a bit closed and shy at this young stage. Pecchia requires more patience. Only 2,500 bottles were made.” 95/100
Voor een overzicht van de wijnen van Gagliole, klik hier.